Home Inspection

Too many times I have run across a bonus room or flex room advertised as a bedroom. Did you know there are three main criteria needed to technically label a bedroom as a bedroom? Just because there may be a bed in a particular room doesn’t mean it’s a bedroom. This is important because a home may be listed for sale stating there are four bedrooms when there are only three. This can affect home costs. Here are three things to qualify a room to be labeled as a bedroom:

• The room must have a clothes closet (not a shallow linen closet).
• The room must have a window that is operational and big enough for a human being to climb thru in event of a fire. No fixed windows.
• The room must have a heat and A/C source. This should be tied into the HVAC system with vents or should have a dedicated ductless split mini system. When finishing off a basement for bedroom space, makes sure it has a conditioned air source present.

If any one of these three requirements is omitted, the room cannot be labeled as a bedroom. Why is this important. Two reasons; 1) Safety. 2) Taxes and home value. While extra bedrooms bring added money, make sure they are really bedrooms.

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Even the most seasoned professional roofer or home inspector sometimes cannot pinpoint the exact age of a roof. Often it boils down to their best “guesstimate”.

When shopping for a house, pay attention to the Sellers Disclosure Statement as there is a place to disclose the roof age. Sometimes a seller is very confident in recalling when the roof was replaced. However, more times than not, the age of the shingles is a mystery. Here are some ways to “approximate” the age of your shingles.

• Check for cupping or curling. This generally begins to occur in the 15-20 years range. Brittle shingles also indicate age with a tear test. Pliable or soft shingles suggest they are newer.
• Check for granular loss. Look in the gutters for excess granules. The bottoms of downspouts also can have a small pile of granules present. This generally indicate the roof is at least 10 years old.
• Check for fungal staining at the northern exposure of the roof. Heavy stains indicate shingles are generally 12+ years old. Light or early staining doesn’t occur on roof shingles generally until about 7 years old.
• Look for torn or missing shingles. This may not tell you the age as much as the quality of the installation. Loose nails lead to shingle damage.
• Check the stack vent boots on the roof. Are they cracked or torn around the neck? Is the black rubber semi shiny or has it turned to a faded gray color? Newer boots have a satin black finish. Old boots are dried out, faded and cracked.
• Most professional roofers and home inspection reports will provide an “estimated” age. Determining the shingle age is NOT an exact science.

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As spring is here and summer is just around the corner, we will soon be turning our A/C units on, if we haven’t done so already. While professional maintenance is recommended annually, there are some things homeowners can do to ensure to keep their A/C unit humming along.

• Change or clean your filter. Replace or wash every 1-3 months. Remember the rule, the cheaper the filter, the more often you change it.
• Clean condenser coils. Carefully remove any debris from the outside unit. Use a hose to wash coils and remove dirt, pollen and the current seed pods that are falling.
• Trim or remove vegetation. Cut back any shrubs or trees in direct contact with the unit. Ideally, you want to have 2 feet of clearance around all sides the outside unit to maintain good air flow.
• Inspect the fins. Use a fin comb to straighten bent coil fins on the outside for better performance.
• Check your thermostat. Ensure it is working properly for optimal temperature control. Change the batteries if needed.

Taking care if of these small issues can save you a lot of big-time frustration and money in the long run. 

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A few weeks back I talked about making sure your overhead door is properly maintained. But what about the rest of your garage or carport? Is it in a safe condition?  Things to look out for:

• Place hazardous materials out of reach. Store these materials responsibly. Fertilizers, pesticides, gasoline, cleaning products, car maintenance fluids, and paints and solvents are just a few examples. These should be stored up high and out of the reach of small children and animals. Ideally, these should be locked up inside a vented cabinet.
• Store power tools safely. Eliminate any safety concerns by making sure power tolls kept in your garage are properly stored so kids can’t access them. For added safety, unplug any stationary tools when not in use.
• Keep sharp tools safely stored. Rakes, shovels, pruners, and many other types of yard tools with sharp edges are unsafe when not properly put away. After a long day of yard work, it’s easy to get a little careless and just lean your tools and ladder against the wall. That’s a good way to have them fall over and hit a small child or even put a nice scratch in your vehicle.
• Keep your floor clean. Sweep up any spills, sawdust, and debris. Properly dispose of oily rags. It always smart to have a fire extinguisher and first-aid kit close by.
• Deal with clutter. Eliminate the chance for trip hazards and items falling over. Boxes and paper products set too close flammables are potential fire hazards. Are bicycles secured with a rack or kickstand (no leaning)?

Make use of the many available garage storage systems available, such as the slat wall systems, storage racks, pegboards, or a cabinet system. A place for everything & everything in its place!

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Radon is a naturally occurring, radioactive, and odorless gas. It comes from the breakdown of uranium, thorium, or radium in soil rock and sometimes even groundwater.  Radon gases can enter buildings through gaps and cracks in the foundation or concrete slab. Radon is the leading cause of lung cancer in non-smokers.

Radon gas can occur in homes with basements, crawlspaces and slabs. The gas is measured in units called Picocuries per Liter (pCi/L). All homes have levels of radon present.  The problem comes when the level rises to a point that is considered dangerous. Any home with 4.0 picocuries or more should be mitigated. 

The only way to test for radon is thru specialized radon continuous monitoring devices left on-site for a minimum of 48 hours. These devices will measure the level of picocuries in the air every hour. The EPA recommends mitigation if the 48 hours average is 4.0 picocuries or above. Cannister style tests are not as precise as continuous monitoring devices. Mitigation includes installing a vent system thru the slab floor and pushing gases out thru a vent pipe and fan. These are installed by specialized radon mitigation installation companies.

Elevated radon is quite common in the northeast and mid-west portions of the U.S. Some states such as Pennsylvania require a radon test as part of due diligence when purchasing a home. Here in our immediate area, elevated levels of radon have routinely been detected in the Braselton area near or at Chateau Elan, both Del Webb senior communities, and surrounding subdivisions.  However, radon has also been detected sparingly in all areas of Northeast Georgia. It’s hit or miss.   

Most home inspection companies can test for radon.

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Your attic is likely hot due to solar radiant heat absorbed by the roof, combined with poor ventilation or inadequate insulation. We usually think about poor insulation in the winter months, but it can be a bigger issue in the summer months as it can drive up A/C costs and create a host of problems in your attic and on your roof. A normal attic temperature in the summer months is about 20 degrees hotter than your interior temperature. For example, if your interior temperature is set at 72 degrees, your attic temperature should be around 92 degrees. Excessive heat will radiate to your roof decking and can shorten the life of your roof shingles, causing them to dry out and get brittle – losing their elasticity. This will magnify if you have black or dark shingles.

What can you do?

• Make sure your soffit vents are clear from insulation. Baffles may be needed to create a clear path for air flow.
• Fiberglass insulation should be at least 13” deep (R30 minimum). Anything less will require more insulation. This includes blown-in and blanket style. Heat will travel to your living space making you’re A/C run longer.
• Additional roof vents may be needed. The steeper the roof pitch, the more vents are needed to cool the volume of space. Sometime ridge vents on hip roofs are not enough. Turtle back or square static vents may need to be added.
• Install an attic fan at a gable end vent or install on rear roof, thermostatically controlled and are usually set to kick on at about 95 degrees.
• Seal attic entry points with weatherstripping and add a zipper style radiant barrier at the top of your attic ladder.
• Consider encapsulating your attic with spray foam insulation.

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While we all walk and lounge on decks quite often, when is the last time you actually inspected your deck? To ensure proper safety, annual inspections are a must. Focus on the ledger board against the rim joist of the house, joist hangers, posts and handrails for rot, rust or loose connections. Here are some key safety measures;

• Handrails should be at least 36” high with vertical pickets or horizontal rails no more than 4” apart. Bench style handrails are considered unsafe.
• Check to make sure the posts at the handrails have a continuous load path to the foundation, footer or pier.
• Avoid clutter on your deck, keeping surfaces free of decay or deterioration. Outdoor rugs are not recommended on wood decks. They trap rainwater and the floorboards never completely dry out. This accelerates decay.
• Check the ledger board to make sure it is securely bolted to the house, not just nailed. This is a primary cause for deck collapse. Most decks collapse inward against the house. As a rule, bolts should be space at least 16” apart.
• Check for soft, spongy wood, cracks and insect damage.
• Check for nails or screws on the floorboards and handrail caps. Any heads sticking up can cause injury to hands running across handrails and to bare feet on the floorboards and stair treads. Nail or screw back down as needed.
• Check your stairway. Ensure they are firm, stable and able to withstand at least 250 lbs. Wobbly handrails are a safety hazard.
• Power wash and stain or seal as desired.
• When thinking safety, look at it this way – Can 80 year old grandma in high heels or a 1 year child who just learned to walk navigate your deck? Would you allow them on your deck? Is your deck safe for a party for friends and family?

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With spring now here, it is prime time to get outside and evaluate the front of your home.

• Landscaping – Now is the time to rejuvenate the lawn with weed ‘n feed and eventual re-seeding. Trim the shrubs, remove any old dead plants or limbs from last fall. It’s also the perfect time to lay down new mulch or pine-straw. Keep mulch or pine-straw away from direct contact with the bottom of your siding. A two to three inch cutback or gap is desired.
• Front Door – What’s the condition of your front door, steps, stoop or porch? The front door is often the most neglected area of a home. Why? Because it is the least used and doesn’t get the daily attention other doors do. A freshly painted, clean or new front door acts as a focal point. Do your handrails need some attention as well?
• Lighting and Hardware – Replace old, rusting or outdated light fixtures. Maybe the current lights are loose and uneven. Tighten as needed. Check to make sure all the bulbs are operational. How does the mailbox look? Maybe time for a refresh there as well.
• Exterior Cleaning – Power wash your siding and trim even if your home doesn’t need repainting. Bring back the crisp clean look. Do not power wash your windows (will fog the glass). Instead, clean windows by hand with traditional cleaners and micro-fiber cloths. Hint: A small squirt of Dawn detergent in hot water works wonders.
• Clean Gutter & Downspouts – The biggest benefit you can give your home is to make sure water is properly draining and flowing away from the house. Check to make sure gutters are clean and downspouts are properly draining. Check your gutters for rust spots, usually indicates a small pin-hole leak.

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A septic lift station is an underground pumping system used to move wastewater from lower to higher elevations. It allows for sewage to travel uphill to a septic treatment system. It typically includes a watertight basin, with one or more submersible pumps, and float switches that triggers automatic operation when the water level rises.

Purpose: Ideal for homes in low lying areas or where the backyard is uphill from the house.

Operation: Wastewater flows into the wet well basin. When the level rises, float switches activate the pump, which pushes sewage thru a pipe called the “force main”.  Basically, pushes wastewater uphill to a secondary septic tank and/or drain field lines.

Notification: Systems have alarms and a red light to alert homeowners of high water levels, preventing backups.

Benefits: Allows building on challenging terrain, cost effective alternative and protects the environment.

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Ever wonder what those smaller white plastic pipes are for on the side of your house? Generally, you should find two of these at every home. Both are usually ¾” CPVC pipe with a 90-degree elbow pointed downward.

• The one located higher up near a gable end of house should be the condensate drain overflow from your HVAC unit located in the attic. If you ever see water running or dripping from it is an indication you have a condensate backup in your drain pan under your furnace. It’s time to go to the attic and check further. An HVAC professional may need to be consulted. For basement or crawlspace applications, these pipes may also be lower to the ground and will contain cold water.
• If you see water coming out of a lower pipe near the foundation and it is hot, this is an indication the temperature & pressure (T&P) valve on your water heater is faulty. Time to go check the water heater. A licensed plumber may need to be consulted.

These drain pipes are not to be confused with the condensate drip line associated near you’re A/C unit that will deposit water when you’re A/C is running. These are normally located somewhere near you’re A/C unit. Again, if you ever see water running or dripping out of the pipes on the side of your house, beware of an ongoing issue.

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Here’s some things you probably didn’t know…

• Have you stripped out the head of a flat-head or Phillips-head screw before? Don’t grab the drill, a vegetable peeler works wonders. Insert the tip of the peeler into the screw head and turn it counterclockwise. While not recommended as an everyday tool, it will work in a pinch.
• Are your scissors getting dull and longer making the cut? Stack several sheets of aluminum foil, fold them in half, and cut them with the scissors. Within 6 to 8 cuts, the razor-sharp blades will be as good as new.
• Got slow running water at your shower head? Don’t replace it yet. Try cleaning it without removing it. Fill a Ziplock bag halfway with white vinegar. Secure it over the shower head with a thick rubber band and let it sit overnight. In the morning, remove the bag, rinse the shower head, and enjoy the refreshing fast flowing water.
• Cabinet drawers sliding in and out a little sticky? Simply slide either a bar of soap or dish soap along the drawer glide rails. The sudsy savior will act as a lubricant, allowing you a smooth glide to your favorite stash.

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A door that does not properly close is usually caused by one of three problems…

• Loose Hinges – Loose hinges can cause a door to sag and rub against the door frame or drag on the floor. The top hinge is mainly the culprit as this hinge bears most of the weight of the door and pressure when opening and closing. Make sure all hinges are tight. Screw in appropriately. Squeaky hinges should be lubricated with a silicone-based lubricant.
• Misalignment With the Strike Plate – Ever have a door that close all the way, but won’t latch? That mean your strike plate is out of alignment. This could be hinge related or from settlement. The strike plate on the doorframe may need to be adjusted up or down.
• Swelling From Humidity – Wood doors will expand and contract with the season. Try to keep your humidity levels below 50% if your doors swell up in the summer months. A dehumidifier may be the answer.

If these fixes don’t work, the door frame may have shifted due to the house settling, or the door itself may be severely warped. Settlement is usually an indication when the door rubs against the upper frame when opening and closing. In this case, the door may need to be planed at the top to allow enough clearance.

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Aside from everyday cleaning and ensuring proper hygiene, what should I do to maintain my toilets? Do these things monthly:

• Inspect for leaks. Check for water on the floor around the base, the supply line, the shutoff valve and behind the tank.
• Check for internal silent leaks. Place food coloring in the tank. If color appears in the bowl (do not flush). If the color appears in the bowl within 15 minutes, the flapper is leaking.
• Test the flush mechanic. Ensure the handle does not stick and the chain is not tangled. Does the tank fill slowly? Does the water run too long? Ensure the water level is about 1” below the overflow tube for a strong flush.
• Check Stability. Perform a rock test by straddling the toilet with both legs. Lock your knees against both sides of the toilet and gently rock back and forth. If the toilet moves with your legs, it is a sign the toilet needs to be tightened against the floor.
• Check the upper tank. Gently push on the upper tank for movement. If it moves front to back, it should be tightened at the bottom against the toilet bowl.
• Do not use the toilet as a trash can. Only flush toilet paper and human waste. This is what the sewer or septic system is designed for.
• Replace your flapper valve every 2-3 years, as they frequently wear out. This prevents periodic water surging throughout the day or night.
• Avoid harsh chemicals. Do not use drop-in bleach tablets as they corrode plastic and rubber components. This accelerates their life span. Use gentle, non-toxic cleaners.

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Your garage door goes up and down multiple times a day. Continued movement can lead to loose hardware. What can you do about it?

• Check for loose fasteners, bolts, brackets and the upper track. Clean and lubricate all moving parts. Use a lithium grease or silicone spray.
• Calibrate the springs for proper balance. If you have an automatic opener, pull on the rope to release the handle. This will release the lock and you can manually open the door. Lift the door about halfway up and let go. Your door should stay in place. If your door goes further up or comes back down, it’s a sign your door is not properly balanced. The tension springs most likely need to be adjusted. An uncalibrated door puts extra strain on the opener motor causing it to work harder and wear out faster. A licensed professional garage door company should be consulted. Never try to adjust springs yourself.
• Test the auto reverse safety feature. Place an object under the door and then push the button to close it. The door should automatically reverse itself upon coming in contact with that object. If not, repairs are needed by a licensed professional garage door company.
• Make sure the pathway between the lower safety eye beams is kept clear. Safety beams should be mounted no more than 4” above the floor.

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Squeaking floors generally are a result of two different causes;

• Nail-pops in the sub-floor, not properly fastened to the floor joists. A common occurrence is because in newer construction, automatic nail-guns were not properly used. Pressure settings on the nail gun were too low and left the heads slightly elevated and speed on installer caused the nails to miss the joists.  Ideally, sub-floors should be screwed down to the floor joists.  Another cause is the type of sub-floor material used.  Plywood is highly preferred over OSB (Oriented Strand Board).  Over time, these fasteners will loosen and cause the squeaks.
• Humidity or a lack thereof is the cause, particularly with hardwood floors. In colder months floors with contract, creating gaps. In warmer months, floors will expand, cause boards to rub together with added pressure.  This can be regulated with monitoring the humidity in your home, using a humidifier or dehumidifier as needed.

What is the fix?  Nail-pops can be addressed two different ways.  Remove floor covering and nail down the nail-pops and then add screws alongside the nails to add rigidity and strength.  The other method is to install blocking between your floor joists from underneath in basement or crawlspace.  “Break-off” screws can be installed thru carpeting but can be felt in bare feet.  For hardwood floors, sprinkle baby powder or talcum powder into the joints between the floor boards.

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